Monday, March 28, 2011

Week before moving in on my own

Dear friends,


I’d like to share a short story* with you about my “networking” event this week. I imagined “networking” to be much like it is in America- a bunch of people in business casual clothing in a generic hotel lobby being served Bud and exchanging business cards without any intention of ever contacting each other.


But first I’d like to address my use of asterisks. Sorry- I know there are a lot. Some would even say too many. I like them though.


Early Friday afternoon 8 of us in my training group were sent to the headquarters of the Boy Scouts of Dominica to “network” with the president of the organization. We were not given an exact location but told that it was near the youth computer center and Saint Mary’s High School. As we sweat and fought amongst ourselves in the parking lot near the youth center a very normal looking middle-aged gentleman approached our group and said that he was to take us to the Boy Scouts building. We blindly followed him down a path, away from the street, past a primary school to what appeared to be a partially inhabited open-air building with no sign. The doorway opened to a large open room with a large, navy, octagonal table in the middle surrounded by chairs and benches. Two Boy Scout signs and a chalkboard decorated the walls. After 7 weeks of training we all assumed we understood the drill and sat down around the table.


Completely silently, but captivating the entire group immediately, walked in a large man, with an entirely turgid belly that protruded about 10 inches beyond that rest of his body, wearing just a towel wrapped around his waist. He started motioning at us, pointing to his ears, to his lips, to us and gesticulating wildly. We (I think it was all of us but it may have just been me) began playing charades with him but he wasn’t helping at all. Then one of the culturally sensitive trainees informed us that he must be deaf. With that he left the room and we sat in silence contemplating what our networking session with a deaf and perhaps mute man would be like. Slowly the space around our table filled up with men who had clearly seen better days. At first it was just two men sitting on a non-working refrigerator behind us, and then two more leaning against the wall, until there were about 10 men surrounding us. I sat debating whether to feel guilty about the horrible assumptions I was making or be quite certain that we were going to get badly beat up in this abandoned looking building, far from the road, with a large motley looking group of guys surrounding us.


Then towel guy walked in. Fully dressed. Once he began talking it was even less clear what was going to happen. He introduced himself as a recovering drug addict and alcoholic and began his speech by showing us the math of how long he had been under the influence on the chalkboard. From that he moved into a rant about how Godless America is. He asked each person individually if he/she had prayed in school and was outraged when someone told him that was illegal to pray in public schools in the US. (I lied to him and told him I did pray in my school because I wanted him to like me.)


Through out his ranting I was able to piece together what was going on. He had been the president of the Boy Scouts of Dominica until he had gone too far into his addictions. While in rehab he decided that the rehab center was not doing enough and left with two other patients to live in this abandoned building and get clean on their own. That was 4 years ago and they are all still clean and have sent 8 others back into the community with jobs and homes and no relapses (they have a crisis hotline which is this guy’s cell phone). The men sitting around us are all living there currently as clients of this rehab facility. The facility receives no funding, has no outside staff and may not have electricity. It is also the headquarters of the Boy Scouts of Dominica.


He continued his rant telling us about his plans for the future, using a great many clichés (he would start them and then pause and wait for us to finish them, which I did every time), and mocking most of our group. He told one young man (who identified himself as an Eagle Scout) that he looked like he just wanted to lime (hang out), whine (dirty dancing) and dine around the island. Then he called on one of the girls in our group, “Phillipa” there was no response as her name is Wilmina, and again “Phillipa!” She then looked up and said, “My name is not Phillipa, its Wilmina” to which he replied, “You’re Philipino- right? Your name is Phillipa today.”


As the “networking” meeting ended and he was taking questions he stopped in the middle of a lecture about Native Americans and asked if anyone was from Upstate New York. I quickly interjected that I grew up in Buffalo. His daughter just graduated from the University at Buffalo and his son went to Daemen College. He went to Monroe Community College (in Rochester). We chatted at length about Western New York after. I’m pretty sure I’ve found my mentor. Also- he may be the President’s brother. Unclear.


Other exciting things that happened this week: I went to a doll making class excited to learn to make some kind of native doll to find out that “making dolls” is decorating “Chiney store Barbies” in crazy elaborate costumes. I joined the Miss Salisbury Pageant Committee and went to a 3-hour meeting about beauty pageants. The landlord of my apartment was wearing an “I am Canadian” t-shirt when I went to meet her (that is a shirt from a Molson Canadian Beer campaign).

Coming up: I move into my own apartment on Saturday! Look out for a video tour next week. I implement my first Peace Corps project on Tuesday starting a tutoring program for recent immigrant children who do not speak English.


Go get ‘em,


Erin


*This story is probably not going to be short. Like all my favorite stories it will end in a discussion about Buffalo.

Monday, March 21, 2011

Week Communication Breakdown

Every time I start to feel sorry for myself I try to remember that I could be in Eastern Europe freezing my tuchus off and trying to learn a very complicated foreign language.


Regardless of this awareness many times a week I feel sorry for myself about how I have no idea what is going on. More accurately would be that I feel like I miss about 75% of any conversation that I am part of. Somehow I miss all of the actual planning. It is quite funny because the Peace Corps constantly tells us to be patient and flexible. Everyday is lesson in both of those. Like this weekend:


7:00 pm on Friday night. My host mom arrives at home. I am sitting on my bed reading in my very purple room. No plans have been discussed for this weekend when I inquired the night before.


Host Mom: (yells) Air-een! Come awhile!*

Me: (Enters) Good night. How was town?

Host Mom: John-Lewis** asks if you have meetings on Friday and I tell him when I reach home.

Me: (long, confused pause)

Host Mom: John-Lewis is reaching Possy*** tonight, I tell him that is good.

Me: (still trying to figure out if the statement before was a question) I don’t have any meetings tonight. Do you mean tonight or next Friday?

Host Mom: Okay, okay. (Exits)


10 minutes later.

Host Mom: (yells from the kitchen) Air-een! Come awhile!

Me: (Enters, hoping to be fed) Yes?

Host Mom: Pack the plaintains and the fish.

Me: Sure. What should I pack them in? Are we going somewhere?

Host Mom: (slightly exasperated) We reaching Possy tonight.

Me: (confused) Oh. Are we staying overnight? Should I pack a bag?

Host Mom: Okay, okay. A big bag. (exits)


I know what you’re all thinking- how could Erin not realize that this was an invitation to go to John-Lewis’s house in Portsmouth for a dinner of fried plaintains, boiled hotdogs and cocoa tea**** (at 9 pm), to meet his entire extended family, and to spend the night at his house and drive back to Salisbury at 5:30 in the morning. I don’t know. And I can’t even blame it on the language barrier.


*"Come awhile" is used for anytime you are calling someone- whether you want them to watch you peel carrots, meet the prime minister, or hand him/her an enormous plate of food that was not requested you simply scream "come awhile" from wherever you are. I learned today that the correct response to "come awhile" is "just now" which means "I will come when I darn well please, be it 5 minutes or an hour" and "in a while" means I'm coming right now. I have yet to use "just now" but I will be taking great advantage of this new knowledge.


**John-Lewis is the father of my two youngest host sisters. He does not live with us but spends a lot of time with my host mom and sisters. I am not sure if his name is John Lewis or his surname is John-Lewis. Each time I have tried to ask it’s a conversation much like the one above. He works for the police though and Dominica does not have a military so the police are kind of the military too. One afternoon I got out of the shower and walked into the kitchen to see John-Lewis (who is about 6’3” and 250 lbs) in full camo holding a M-16. I almost wet my towel.


***Possy is the Kweyol name of a town about 20 miles north of my town where John-Lewis has a house that may or may not be where he lives.


**** Cocoa tea is a delicious drink made from boiling cocoa and adding milk and sugar. It was a texture in between hot chocolate and chocolate pudding though and I’m still getting used to drinking it at dinner.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Capitalism


That's right- Commonwealth of Dominica Obama postage stamp.



A guy at Carinival who knew how to capitalize on Sharon's love of hotdogs.



Friday, March 11, 2011

Hotdogs

Many of you who know about my love of hotdogs, especially a charbroiled Sahlen’s, will be surprised to find out that I have had enough hotdogs. I feel like Dominica may be doling out some cosmic revenge for all the times I called people bourgie* for not having hotdogs at their barbeques (probably behind your back), challenged people to hotdog eating contests I knew they couldn’t win, and whined about my hotdogs not be properly burned. Because, right now, I’m suffering in a hotdog lover’s hell. Just like the Alanis Morsette song- It's like 10,000 spoons when all you need is a knife. (You can respond in the comments whether it is still emo or just embarrassing to site songs from the mid-90’s that were by Alanis Morsette).

What I’m getting at is that I am having hotdogs all the time and they are all awful. I have been served hotdogs in all kinds of ways that I didn’t even know you could eat them. I’ve had hotdogs cut up and floating in my ramen noodles, hot dogs sliced thin and put on a sandwich in place of lunch meat, hotdogs cut up in Macaroni and Cheese and hot dogs on a roll with ketchup and onions. The problem is not the presentation though: it’s that they are never cooked.

This is definitely all my fault. There existed that brief moment in time when I was handed my first uncooked hotdog meal that I simply needed to say, “Hey host mom- I don’t really like uncooked hotdogs.” It would have been easy as pie. But that moment passed and I did not even realize it. And after that moment it was too late- there’s no turning back.

I’m waging a silent war against the hotdogs but I’m definitely losing. I’ve been trying to wait until no one is watching to run outside and put my hotdog pieces in the compost pile (kind of hiding them under orange peels) but I had a moment of panic when my host mom told my host sister to go turn the compost pile. Hotdogs probably never decompose. I’m sure the casing alone can hold up against at least 2 major tropical storms. They are going to find out my hot doggy secret.

In more hotdog news there is a hysterical song that is very popular right now called “Sharon want a hot dog in her mouth”. For real. All the kids are singing it- it was played constantly during Carnival. Check it out here: http://www.numusiczone.com/songview.php?songID=300189&artist=Wuk_Suk#

And here is the press release from the local newspaper about Mystro Wuk Luk who performs it:

‘Mystro Wok Sok’ confident that the ‘hot dog song’ will earn him the 2011 Road March Title


Written by Alice Dalrymple
Tuesday, 08 February 2011 16:56

Allsworth Cuffy, better known as ‘Mystro Wok Sok’ is confident that his 2011 calypso hit ‘Sharon want a hot dog in her mouth’, will earn him the road march title.

Wok Sok, who is also the composer of ‘the hulahoop’ and ‘rice pelau’, which was penned over a decade ago, says he is pleased that his contribution to this year’s calypso season, is being appreciated by Dominicans all over the world.

He has since labeled the song as ‘the people’s song’.

The calypsonian says while the song may appear to be more humorous than serious, much thought was put into its lyrical content and tempo.

According to him, the song is ideal not just for the carnival season as it relates to the everyday way-of-life.

Cuffy’s CD which comprises of seven songs, including his 2011 calypso hit are now available for sale at the price of $10.00.

CDs can be purchased from Mas Camp officials or from the calypsonian himself, who can be contacted at telephone number 245 9356.

Please note that I now live in a society where personal cell phone numbers are published in newspapers.

*A derivative of the word bourgeois used here to describe people in San Francisco who prefer to both know and discuss the origins of their meat. Also, anyone who doesn’t like Kraft Macaroni and Cheese.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Guess what Carnival in Dahmineekah is like!

Happy Ash Wednesday?


Sorry this entry is a couple days late but Dominica has been in Carnival mode! I have been experiencing the PG version of Carnival this year (my host mom runs a tight ship) but it is still pretty awesome and I can’t wait to be part of the adult version next year.


Carnival season is about 4 weeks ending on Fat Tuesday with festivities through out. During Carnival season there are three big competitions; the Carnival princess show (a beauty pageant for secondary school students, a Dominican- from the Dominican Republic won this year and the real Dominicans were not all pleased), the Queen show (a beauty pageant for adult women), and the Calypso show. There are also children’s versions of both the beauty pageants and calypso competition at most of the schools. I did not attend any of these (and will probably never attend the beauty pageants as they are 3+ hours and are taken very seriously) but I watched the Calypso show on tv and it was spectacular with costumes, stage effects and choreography. Calypsos are nothing like the music we think of with calypsos- they are political, or just funny songs about the state of things in Dominica- check out some of the crowd favorites “My Pressure Up”, “Ready Made Jacket”, and “Internet Children Want It Now” (http://dominica-calypso.com/2011-calypsoes/). All of the artists are Dominicans and it’s a little like American Idol. They have several rounds and eventually someone is crowned the Calypso King- to join the Carnival Queen in the parade. A few years ago they opened the contest to women (it has traditionally been just male- as the winner is the King). This year for the first time ever a woman, Tasha P., won! The reactions have been very split. My new favorite neighbor, a woman named Agnes who took me home from mass when I was standing around confused and alone, is thrilled and yelled from her window the whole way home- “It’s woman time!” I’ve heard several other women who are quite angry about it- they think it is “not fair” that there are two women representing the Carinval royalty (I have not inquired about what makes this “unfair”, in fact it seems quite fair, but Dominica is very religious*).


Carnival parades start Monday morning at 4 am- for a parade called Jouvay (sp?)! Most villages have their own festivities and there are also big festivities in town (Roseau). My village is small enough that the parade goes straight up a hill on the main road past my house. You really have no choice but to wake up as the parade is an enormous truck playing calypsos with 12 bass speakers and 12 other speakers (I don’t know what non-bass speakers are called) driving up the street surrounded by people dancing in costumes (often bras, shorts and cut up tights) which is called “jump up.” Watching them this morning in the pitch black (there are no street lights or flood lights), under the beautiful star filled sky it was incredibly hard to not join in (You are all invited to come visit next year and jump up!). The entire two days (Monday and Tuesday where everything is closed down for Carnival) are filled with parades; one called t-shirt band where you buy a t-shirt and get unlimited drinks and follow the band on a huge truck and dance through the streets, the National parade which is the most similar to a Mardi Gras parade with floats and groups of people wearing matching costumes, and many others. I’m not sure what the rest of the parades are for but my understanding is that they are full of music, dancing, rum and fun!** Next year in Dominica!


Favorite cultural difference of the week: There is lots of love. I visited the pre-school this week and we started the day with song time. The songs were pretty great (one about Jesus dying on the cross, What a Wonderful World It Would Be, etc.) and then the teacher asked the children if they loved “Miss Ereen” which the children screamed “yes” in response to (although I had not interacted with a single child). Then the kids sang the “I love you” song (yes, from Barney) to me, which was adorable and made me uncomfortable. On Sunday I attended the Catholic Church and at the end of mass the priest asked anyone who is new to the church to stand up. A white couple in their mid-60’s from Canada (who looked very straight-laced) stood up and introduced themselves (I didn’t stand up even though I’m new because I didn’t want to be associated with the Canadian tourists). Then the priest asked everyone to sing the welcome song, so about 150 parishioners turned to look at the couple and sang “We love you, we love you, we really, really love you!” I really, really loved every moment of it.


Tune in Friday for “Hotdogs in a Developing Nation”!


* Just like in the USA, “religious” is used here as a euphemism for homophobic.

** After I finished writing this blog post but before I published it Agnes called and took me to see three different towns Tuesday night “jump-ups” which, while being PG and appropriate and involving no alcohol, were quite fun. So, in fact, I do know what the parades are about and my assumptions were correct.